The Treasures of Foro Cassio    

by Mary Jane Cryan

VAI ALLA VERSIONE IN ITALIANO

Beneath the  ruined church of Santa Maria Forcassi near Vetralla,  a Roman city lies waiting to be brought to light  again. In a geophysical survey done before 2003 archaeologists Johnson, Keay and Millet from the British School of Rome to help understand the topography of the site. Despite problems posed by land use, the survey confirmed that settlement at this site was both small and dispersed, with no urban focus: a sort of urban sprawl antilitteram, with scattered villas and lots of  evidence for  funerary monuments.. Along the Via Cassia there were  roadside buildings,  a villa rustica  and a  possible amphitheatre.  The English archaeologists noted that Foro Cassio  was probably  built on top of the remains of a thermal  site complete with crypto portici, service areas, villas and  baths, which makes sense even today in an  area known for its hot springs and local topography includes  names such as  Fossato Caldo and  Capacqua.

They were also able to  clarify the exact route of the ancient Via Cassia which traversed the site leaving fine stretches  of  ancient paving stones  to be admired  in  nearby gardens. Along  an adjacent  country lane there are  Roman paving stones set  vertically  to form part of a magnificent  wall.

Close by the site,  on the Via della Veronica, a beautiful stretch of Roman road came to light  in 1988 , covered by about l metre of earth. When  discovered,  the local authorities had it unearthed,  photographed  and then  covered up again, for its protection, said the local  Fine Arts Superintendent.

Similar  Roman road works  are visible at  Pian di Monetto at Montefiascone or  Vulci, two nearby sites, on  Rome’s  Via  Appia Antica and in most of  the former Roman colonies such as  Epheseus in Turkey.  

Archeological objects dating from  the 4th century BC up to the 2nd century AD have been taken from the Foro Cassio site and recycled during the middle ages in the construction of Vetralla’s  San Francesco church.  This church boasts the most complete Franciscan fresco cycle also has capitals and marble slabs reused as decoration  in the  church and crypt.

The lack of care by  former proprietors, by  the city administration in the past 20 years and the very persons who should be  vigilant in  protection of  sites of historic interest has been blatant. Symptomatic is the unhappy phrase  muttered by an administrator  one day in the main piazza of Vetralla.  According to him, the only thing to do with Foro Cassio was to put a bit of dynamite! Other administrators cannot understand  why “a pile of stones” should be causing so much hassle.

The same Superintendents substituted the wooden  roof (datable to 1416) with one of  sheet metal  which caused further degradation  to the historic building.  This new roof instead of protecting the  remains caused the walls to be “washed” by rain water and  then, incredibly,  a new  series of frescoes  came to light, increasing the need for its salvage.

Through the centuries the church of S. Maria di Foro Cassio also was used also as a lepers’ refuge  or lazaretto and every once in a while it was disinfected with a hand of lime. This  white  paint had been washed away  by the rainwater seeping down against the walls by the badly constructed metal roof covering.   Inside the church there are still traces (notwithstanding modern vandals) of two wall paintings: a Madonna in throne with Child and a Crucifixion attributed to Masaccio and the school of Lorenzo da Viterbo.  Other paintings and frescoes include  a portrait of Innocent II , scenes of saints  and  apostles,  all datable from the 14th to the 17th centuries. Their delicate  beauty a further testimony of the site’s  historic and artistic  importance.  

Thanks to the recent  accidental “washings”  new paintings are visible including a crucifixion scene  on the counter façade which has been  interpreted by Simone Piazza and Carlo Tedeschi . Animals, figures of St. Benedict and a group of  apostles completes this interesting fresco along with  part of an inscription, “Orate pro nobis”  datable to the first decades of the 12th century .

Over the last decade many Italian researchers have studied and written about the church and its treasures:   Prof. Enrico Guidoni, Elisabetta de Minicis,  Elisabetta Perugi, R. Ricci, Luciano Santella and Daniele Camilli. All agree that both the above ground site and that  still hidden underground  are a priceless treasure  of history.  A stratification of civilizations that have followed one upon the other,  dating well before the discovery of America.

Every June 2 for  the last few years a large group of persons from Vetralla, other nearby towns and from Rome, have made a symbolic walk through the territory of Vetralla along the ancient roads (Via della Veronica, Via Cassia/Franchigena) ending at the  ruined church of S. Maria in Forcassi. They hope that their walk will be a sort of wake up call for the city administrators .   For many  centuries this site has been  sleeping beauty, similar to the sanctuary of Demeter  discovered last year near Vetralla, but now a very large amount of money has been earmarked by the Lazio Region for its recuperation. A professional and  viable project must be prepared according to a strict calendar  and the works  begun  if not the funds will be forfeited.  The future of the site now depends on the approval of the project and the intelligent use that the citizens and administrators  make of it.

 The importance of Foro Cassio  is also based on the fact that for centuries it was   a stopping  place along the Pilgrims’ Route – the Via Francighena-thus creating further  layers of history and   a priceless treasure for today’s community and for future generations.

The  thousands  of pilgrim who  paused at, or passed through, Foro Cassio over the centuries can be better understood thanks to a new book on San Pellegrino,  a  figure who helped interweave the history of  northern Lazio  with the history of the entire European continent.

 The Italian part of the pilgrims’ pedestrian route  has not yet been as successful as  the Cammino di Santiago di Compostela in Spain,  especially due  to the lack of affordable accommodations  along the route and at the different stopping places . The future of S. Maria in Forcassi should , as was its ancient vocation, be dedicated to this type of hospitality.

Notwithstanding  the present inadequacies and the danger  of walking along  the asphalt highway in the stretch from Siena to Rome, hundreds of Belgian, German, Swiss and French  pilgrims  courageously follow  the route, on foot or on  bicycles,  each week.

  www.elegantetruria.com 

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